by Michael D. Wolok
On a lark, I decided to investigate the shoreline due east from
the University of Miami. In my wandering, I stumbled upon a park
some Miamians know, some Miamians never heard of, and some
Miamians only think they know.
After strolling a short distance into the park, I came across
three spacious ponds linked by two inlets. Overhung with trees,
the inlets appeared like portals to other worlds.
Surrounded by different terrain and possessing its own unique
set of inhabitants, each pond was another world. The terrain
varied from wide-open fields of lush green grass speckled with
palm trees, gumbo-limbo and banyan, to a forest of gnarled oaks,
to hardwood hammocks, to tall saw grass.
Traipsing around these ponds, I spotted on a distant embankment a
nine-and-a-half foot green monster—popularly
known as an alligator. With closed eyelids, it lay motionless
steeping in the sun's rays. Plopped in the middle of this
pristine park, it paradoxically seemed at once both out of place
and right at home.
Two inclinations struggled for supremacy: one, advance closer to
better observe this oddity; two, get the "H" out of there to
protect my hide. The gator's hypnotic stillness and shut eyelids
coaxed my feet a few steps forward—still
leaving an expanse of some twenty-odd feet between us.
I stood in a trance, gazing at the freakish creature. Then I
swung around it, as if I were affixed to the moving leg of a
drafting compass, the stationary leg resting on the gator. An
equilibrium between fear and curiosity set the distance between
us. When I finally decided to leave and took a step away, the
alligator comically popped-open his eyelids, as if he had been
aware of my presence all along. I departed with a smile.
This park piqued my senses, and I would return to it again and
again. Each new visit bequeathed novel gifts. Once after a hard
rain, a flock of snow-white ibises blanketed a patch of land.
With their long, curved, bright-red bills, they probed the soil.
A family of gallinules—duck-like birds with
beaks resembling orange and yellow Halloween
candy—swam the ponds. And in the palm trees,
blue jays skirmished with red-bellied woodpeckers for berries.
The props of the mangrove trees were shot with an assortment of
birds who fished the ponds' rich waters. A yellow-crowned night
heron (whose heads are striped with a distinctive black-and-white
band) inhabited the middle pond. And an ever-present Little Green
Heron exploited a tree limb over the edge of the south pond to
snatch fish. Though seemingly neckless, Little Green Herons
humorously can, at any time, pop-out a long neck. Bird-watching
seemed to be the most boring activity on earth until this park
introduced me to large, strikingly patterned birds with
intriguing behavior patterns.
A mom, a pop, and three trailing, waddling, baby raccoons made
the rounds of the park's trash cans every night, exactly one-half
hour before closing. Occasionally, a sinewy fox with dainty legs
would trot into the picnic area. The raccoons, foxes and
squirrels would often approach within a few feet to eat a morsel
of food tossed to them.
Hordes of giant land crabs invaded the park, yearly. The crabs
pocked the park with burrows—where they
quickly retreated upon sensing any earth vibration. These crabs
resembled alien creatures from another planet, lifted from a
low-grade B movie: eyes at the ends of their antennae, brown
fuzzy beards, legs that only worked sideways, and a strange,
vertical mouth only a mother could love.
But the main attraction was the gator I had stumbled upon on my
first visit. I'd circle the ponds searching for him. If I spied
him my day was made, if not, I'd leave feeling empty. This
alligator's presence was a sign of
mankind's maturity and tolerance, a sign of
mankind's ability to live in harmony with
nature. He provided a magic "antidote to civilization." This
gator and his serene Eden seemed remote from a speedy and greedy
world inhabited by laser scanners, fax machines, and arbitrage.
Peering at this prehistoric beast allowed me to drift to another
epoch. Any moment, I expected a brontosaurus head to rise above
the distant treetops. With this anachronism out-stretched on the
bank of one of his primeval-looking ponds, such a sight would
have seemed perfectly natural.
This gator, though, proffered an even greater incongruity than an
ancient presence in a modern world. Had I met this gator in the
Everglades or at a zoo, our meeting would not have been so
peculiar. What made this gator exceptional, almost surreal, was
that he meandered freely about in a very public park, in the
middle of Miami—a park where children played,
and people picnicked. Here was a free-roaming gator on human turf
(or free-roaming humans on gator turf?), peacefully coexisting.
The "regulars"—those who visited the park
often—informed me that the gator's name was
Charlie, that he had resided at the park ever since people could
remember. With fascination, I watched the regulars toss Charlie
bread and chicken.
Charlie hung-out at two favorite haunts. In the first pond, he
"tanned" at a specific site on the
far bank. And when he had the munchies, he loitered at the
southern edge of the third pond. Curiously, both these places
were marked with a sign that read: "I'll bite the hand that feeds
me!" followed by a supposed drawing of an alligator that looked
more like a manatee; followed by the word, "Danger!" As if
literate, Charlie rarely strayed far from either of these signs.
Though, he did have a secluded place in the mangroves of the
middle pond where he hid when he wished not to be disturbed.
Once, two young girls frolicking around the third pond sighted
Charlie at the pond's edge. With scared giggles, they bounded
onto a picnic table even though other children had formed a
semicircle around him. Eventually, they descended, joining the
crowd. Then they teased each other, playfully trying to push one
another toward him.
There was a foolish child who dashed up to Charlie, threw
stones in his face, and scampered away shouting, "He is coming
after me, he is going to eat me!" Charlie, though, literally
turned the other cheek, taking all abuse stoically. So far as I
know, he never made an aggressive move toward any
human. When the taunting
grew too great, he would, with a certain insouciance and
savoir-faire, gracefully propel himself toward the center of the
pond with a few slow swishes of his tail.
Charlie's south-end haunt was, also, a favorite spot for other
park wildlife. When picnickers tossed bread into the pond, the
crystal clear waters erupted in a vigorous boil as frenzied zebra
fish rapaciously attacked the food in acts of plunder that would
shame piranha. A whole loaf of bread disintegrated amid violent
thrashing and sucking sounds in seconds. Foot-long snook and
tarpon lunged at these fish creating explosive, startling
splashes that sent everyone scurrying away from the shore,
because they'd mistakenly be attributed to the arrival of a
gator.
The slurping noises of the zebra fish attracted numerous painted
turtles and a few shy, snapping turtles, which vied with the fish
for the scraps. Enough commotion summoned Charlie, the king, who
always made a slow, dignified, quiet approach.
In one of my first visits to this area, I witnessed something
curious scooting about underwater. When it surfaced, it appeared
to be a baby Loch Ness monster; closer examination, though,
proved it, an anhinga. An anhinga (also, called a "darter" or
"snake bird") is a bird with an average wingspan of two-feet, a
long, snake-like neck, and the ability to dart around underwater.
When an anhinga swims above the water, only its head and long
neck are visible, its body strangely remains
submerged—giving it that
"Loch Ness Monster" appearance.
It became a familiar sight to see the anhinga spear fish beneath
the water with its pointy beak, surface, climb onto its perch,
flick its catch into the air, gulp it down, then hang its wings
out to dry. Charlie, the anhinga, and the Little Green Heron
formed a close-knit club that shared this corner of the pond:
Charlie would surprisingly pay the anhinga no heed even when it
would occasionally swim in front of his snout.
A man who passed by this site observed the turtles, the fish, the
heron, the anhinga, and Charlie. He, also, witnessed a water
snake wondrously slithering across the surface of the water,
catching fish, taking the catch ashore in its mouth, and in plain
view devouring it. He noticed that the animals acted nearly
oblivious to man, as if enchanted. He then exclaimed, "Disney,
eat your heart out!"
On a sweltering summer day, a formal wedding took place by the
pond; tuxedos were de rigueur. An accordionist began playing,
"Here comes the bride." Now, I can't exactly say that Charlie was
a discriminating music critic, but he did like music. Music meant
people and people meant food. So, you can guess who reverently
pulled-up in the pond just behind the line of wedding guests.
The music continued to play, as Charlie was noticed, first by one
guest—whose gaze was now transfixed over his
shoulder at Charlie, instead of at the wedding
couple—and then by another. Soon, all the
guests were warily throwing furtive glances at Charlie.
Finally, the bride and groom noticed something amiss; they
realized they were no longer the center of attention. One
snickering guest silently pointed to Charlie. After a little
discussion and a little nervous laughter, the procession shifted
a tad away from Charlie and the pond, and the ceremony continued
without further ado.
Then there was the time, I saw two elderly women strolling around
the pond. Camouflaged in the tall saw grass, Charlie was resting
peacefully at one of his favorite haunts. The two women were
absorbed in conversation, not paying much attention where they
were going, and they were on a direct collision course for
Charlie. Standing on the opposite embankment, there was little I
could do. I could almost hear the theme from Jaws playing in the
background. At a separation of not more than five-feet, Charlie
was—shall we say—noticed.
With Olympic agility, the seniors quickly managed to distance
themselves from Charlie; then gaped at him while alternately
eyeing each other in amazement. They then laughed while gingerly
negotiating their way around him.
In his time, Charlie endured quite a few fools and crazies. There
was once a father who playfully dangled his two-year old daughter
several feet above Charlie's nose while his petrified wife looked
on in stunned horror. And there were reckless teenagers who threw
coke bottles at Charlie as he floated in the center of a pond.
Perhaps, too, some might have considered me one of the
crazies: for after a time, I fed Charlie out of my
hand, and pet his nose
and back. His back felt surprisingly pliant and squished like the
back of a frog, and his nose felt hard and hollow like
papier-mâché.
In fact, I would occasionally put on
"shows" for the picnickers. First,
I'd toss a trail of marshmallows, a favorite alligator
delightinto the pond.
Charlie was keyed into the sound of splashing marshmallows. He'd
follow the trail to shore, munching each marshmallow on his way.
Gators like to wallow in the marsh, so it only stands to reason
that they would like "marsh
wallows" . . . olkay, so I'm no
humorist. I guess Dave Barry at the Miami Herald can now rest
easy, knowing I'm not about to take his day
job anytime soon. Anyway, after Charlie arrived at the
pond's edge, I'd set afloat a slightly used
hamburger on a bun, I had scrounged from picnic leftovers. If
Charlie was hungry, he devoured the hamburger, bun and all.
If not, he'd nudge the bun away with his snout, and dive for the
sinking hamburger.
Charlie prized barbecued spareribs and chicken above all: Jutting
his head high out of the water, he crushed the bones with
startlingly loud, chilling, bone-crunching
sounds—which invariably evoked
"oohs" and
"aahs" from the picnickers. Then
I'd call him to shore and feed him a package of hot dogs,
one-at-a-time, right out of my hand.
My actions were predicated on hundreds of hours observing
Charlie. During the first year, I kept my distance. But every
time I spotted him, I'd summon my courage and charily approach a
tad closer. Then one day while he was sunning himself, I
approached too close. Like a lightning bolt, he exploded into the
water generating a thundering splash, and in fractions of a
second was gazing at me from the center of the pond. I, then,
realized Charlie was more afraid of me, than I, of him. Charlie
appeared to act wary and apprehensive just like feral cats I have
been known to rescue and tame.
Whenever Charlie was in the vicinity of humans, he moved with
extreme caution and hesitancy. When I first fed him hot dogs on
plate by the pond's edge, he wouldn't approach the plate if I was
nearby. Only after I moved far away, would he approach the plate.
Then he would select a single hot dog from the pile, swim to the
middle of the pond with it hanging-off the side of his mouth like
a Groucho Marx cigar. Only then would he eat it. He repeated this
ritual with each hot dog. However, each time I returned to the
park, he allowed me to stand a little closer to the plate.
Eventually, he felt comfortable enough to eat the hot dogs while
I stood nearby.
Then I fed him one hot dog skewered on a very, very long branch.
With great care, he removed the hot dog from the branch, and ate
it. After many such feedings, I gradually reduced the length of
the branch, till finally I felt comfortable feeding him out of my
hand. Still, I gave Charlie a lot of respect, and was always on
full guard. But after a time, I came to believe Charlie viewed me
no differently than the feral cats I've rescued and tamed.
Because of Charlie, I made a study of alligators and learned:
Alligators have different personalities; they can be house pets
to at least four-and-a-half feet; they can be housebroken and
taught tricks; and they can recognize a human who hasn't been
seen for two years. This is not the
stereotypical image promoted by the media. Nor is this the
stereotypical image most people have of gators. As it turns out,
gators are not aggressive, purely instinctual creatures with
pea-sized brains, as they are often characterized or portrayed.
In fact, alligators and crocodiles do not share the same
temperament: Crocodiles are often aggressive, alligators
generally are not. One, notable
exception to this rule is a mother alligator defending her
young.
The late Rube Allyn (no relation to Rube Goldberg), former
head of The Great Outdoor Publishing Company, and an alligator
expert once said: "An alligator really
compares to the cow of our domestic animals. A human could jump
in the same pond with a dozen alligators and never get a scratch.
Alligators are retiring . . . [but there are] all kinds of animal
personalities . . ."
As a matter of fact, at Everglades National Park, the US National
Parks Service conducts public, nature treks through thigh-deep,
wild-gator infested marsh. The marsh near Shark River Valley loop
Road is literally teaming with hundreds of wild gators. Gators
are visible all along the road. Yet, children are allowed to go
on these marsh tours and hike alone on this road. The US Parks
Service would not do this, if alligators posed the threat to
humans that most people suppose.
In Florida, it is a misdemeanor to molest an alligator. Now, I
know that there are those of you (particularly, Dave Barry) out
there who are wondering: "Who in the world
would be dumb enough or perverted enough to try to molest a
gator?" "All kidding
aside," feeding an alligator is construed under
Florida statute as gator molestation. And as laws go, it's a
pretty good law. When alligators are fed, they can lose their
fear of man, and like the bears at Yellowstone National Park can
become a nuisance, and even a hazard, if they begin to beg for
peanut butter and jelly sandwiches—or worse
yet, don't beg, just take.
In this particular case, I was not aware of the state law when I
fed Charlie. Also, I knew he had been fed for years and was still
being fed by countless others, and had never become a nuisance.
Moreover, Charlie always had a cornucopia of food in the pond. It
still wasn't right, and I don't excuse myself, but I merely offer
mitigating circumstances. We all have our vices, mine was feeding
Charlie.
After five years of visiting the park on a regular basis, I
became occupied with personal matters and returned infrequently.
When I did return, I noticed the absence of the Little Green
Heron, the anhinga, and Charlie. I asked the regulars, but no one
knew a thing.
Adjoining Charlie's park lay the largest
botanical garden in the world. Charlie often visited this garden,
and its eight ponds—admittedly without paying
its five-dollar admission.
The caretaker—a simple, good-natured, cheerful
fellow—lives in a coral house on the premises.
During the day, he patrols the garden by bicycle. At closing
time, he drives a cart along the garden path to ensure the park
is empty.
One day, I visited the garden, late. As closing time drew near,
the caretaker offered to take me in his cart to the front gate.
While riding with him, I apprehensively queried about the local
gator.
The caretaker replied that he had always felt uncomfortable
with gators in the garden's ponds, that he believed gators were a
constant threat and danger. He said sometime last
September in the early
morning, he saw a gator laying on a concrete path by one of the
garden's ponds, and knew that visitors often
fed this gator. He told me, he called the Florida Freshwater and
Game Commission to dispose of the "nuisance" alligator, and they
did. In my alligator studies, I learned it is quite normal for
alligators—which are
cold-blooded—to warm themselves on
sun-drenched slabs of rock (indistinguishable to an alligator
from a concrete path) during the hours following
sunrise.
I called the Freshwater and Game Commission, and spoke to
Lieutenant Dick Lawrence, a wildlife officer. He told me that he
remembered the incident. He said that when a ranger went out to
the garden, the gator was found in one of the ponds, not on the
path. But with alligators no longer considered an endangered
species, the Freshwater and Game Commission will destroy just
about any gator against whom there is a
complaint—without determining whether or not
it's really a nuisance gator. Officer Lawrence said he had to act
on dubious complaints, because if he didn't, and perchance, one
of those alligators attacked someone, it would be his hide.
In his day, Charlie brought happiness, education, and unexpected
pleasure to thousands. A steady stream of first-timers,
"bumped" into Charlie. Some
considered him ugly and repulsive, others considered him majestic
and beautiful.
Many were incredulous that he could be a fixture at a park as
public as this. There were many who stood not more than ten-feet
from Charlie, and nonchalantly commented what a good meal he
would make or what a nice pair of shoes Charlie would make, even
as I would be feeding him out of my hand. If Charlie had wanted,
he could easily have had these cold-blooded louts for lunch. It
made me wonder which creature was less civilized, the alligator
who didn't eat humans or humans who would eat
a wondrous, semi-tame alligator. The irony of the situation was
never lost on me.
Most visitors found Charlie fascinating. Most derived uncommon
satisfaction from being able to walk-up to Charlie, and
scrutinize at close range his unusual features, like the flaps of
his ears and his valve-like nostrils. For most, he transformed
what otherwise would have been a routine day at the park into an
exceptionally rewarding experience.
And most discovered, what Seminole alligator wrestlers know, but
keep secret: Alligators are generally not feisty or ferocious,
and rarely have it in for humans. Alligators would rather relax
in the hot sun, than bite the rump of some buxom blond
— as depicted on so many Florida postcards.
With millions of gators out there, there are bound to be some
that are dangerous, but the same can, also, be said in no small
measure for homo-sapiens. Personally, I've
found humans to be much less trustworthy, and a lot more
aggressive and dangerous than alligators.
These days, I very seldom visit my idyllic paradise, Matheson
Hammock Park. It now seems lifeless and sterile. It's just not
the same—not without the little Green Heron,
the anhinga, and especially not without my prehistoric friend,
Charlie, who warmed and tickled the cockles of my
heart.
Footnotes